Riding a wave; it feels like the moment you're in is where you're supposed to be, only a surfer knows the feeling - Shaun Thompson
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Surfing is being in nature, but it's not like walking in a forest or hiking up a hill. A forest won't toss you around and get sand in your bikini. When we surf the ocean is more powerful then us but that's what keeps drawing us back... .
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If you ask a surfer about their best wave, watch their expression change with delight. When they tell you the story they'll tell you unnecessary details such as the temperature of the sand or the type of wax they used because this memory is probably the one they cherish and try to keep alive.
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